Day 4--The Holocaust Museum and War-Time Cemetery, a hard day for us

First some facts, then some thoughts.

Vad Vashem is Israel's official memorial to the victims of the Holocaust.  It is dedicated to preserving the memory of the dead, honoring Jews who fought against the Nazi's and the Gentiles who aided the Jews.  In addition, its research is not only focusing on the 6 million Jews who were murdered during the Holocaust but also genocide in general with the aim of avoiding such events in the future.

We spent most of our time in the main Museum.  Jonathan gave us an hour and a half to go through it, we needed three and a half hours.  It consists of a long corridor with ten underground hallways.  We had a personal audio guide to take us through,  Whether you know a little or a lot about the Holocaust, I would recommend you spend some time at the Vad Vashem's website.  It is vast and very informative.

We also toured the Children's Memorial.  The Holocaust took 1.5 million children to their graves.  This is an underground space where through mirrors, four flickering candles are reflected to surround you with an 'infinite' number of lights.  While you are slowly winding through the pitch-darkness, the children's names, ages, and hometowns are heard.  The immeasurable number of lights that surround you is almost overwhelming.  Recognizing that each light represents a child......it is truly life-changing. 

After clearing our hearts and heads, we went to Mt. Herzl, Israel's Arlington National Cemetary.  We walked by the graves of the leadership of Israel since its founding but spent most of our time at the graves of two soldiers.  The first, Michael Levin.  He was a Jewish American, who immigrated to Israel and joined the IDF, Israel Defense Force, (the name for their Army).  He was killed on August 1, 2006 during the 2nd Lebanon War. 

In Jewish families, you bury your dead either the day of death or the following day.  However, because Michael's family was in the US, this was impossible.  Word of this was heard throughout Jerusalem and at Michael's service, 10,000 people attended because his family was not able to appear.  As a result of this, Lone Soldier Center was established to meet the needs of IDF soldiers who do not have family in Israel.

By chance, a huge group of military and friends were at his grave commemorating his death 12 years ago.  As we watched the ceremony, one man broke away and came up to our group.  He was a friend of Michael's and spent about 10 minutes telling us about Michael and his friendship.  Overwhelming for him to share this and for us to listen.

The next grave we visited was a 19-year-old soldier, Li Mat, who was killed in the Gaza Strip just 4 years ago.  He entered a booby-trapped house.  He and two other paratroopers were killed.  We stopped by his grave only because his mother was attending to it and Jonathan asked a few questions of her. We quickly realized that she was preparing for the yearly memorial at his gravesite.  This explained the many seats around. 

He asked her to speak to us concerning her son.  Jonathan interpreted her comments, no translation was needed for her grief.  His gravesite was decorated with his surfboard, his guitar and many items from his life, medals, etc.  What was missing was his headstone, (they call this the 'pillow').  Without asking, she told us that the State of Israel would not provide a headstone because she had asked them to include Li's brother's name along with her's and her husband's. ("Just six letters") The State refused and no headstone was provided.  Her deep anger at her country was palatable not providing this valuable part of her son's legacy because of bureaucracy. 

I leave you with this poem by Martin Niemoller, a prominent pastor and outspoken public foe of Adolf Hitler who survived seven years in a Nazi concentration camp.

First, they came for the Socialists, and I did not speak out,
Because I was not a Socialist.

Then they came for the Trade Unionists, and I did not speak out,
because I was not a Trade Unionist.

Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out,
because I was not a Jew.

Then they came for me, and there was no one left to speak for me.


Shalom, world, Shalom.......

Day 3--"Away In The Manger" Bethlehem, this is not

This morning is Bethlehem.  A real culture shift.  First, we are now in Palestine, not Israel.  Indeed, our guide, Jonathan, who, next week, is guiding one of the "C's" from Paypal/LinkIn, (by helicopter, no less), can't join us because he is an Israeli, not a Palestinian.

If you understand the Golan Heights, West Bank and Gaza Strip better than me, then don't check out this website.  If you really want to become educated, as I did, spend some time looking at this article.  It is excellent and understandable.

Hebrew, Arabic and English instructions at the border

Our bus driver, who is Jewish, has special privileges to drive into the West Bank, he drops us off in Bethlehem for our morning with our Muslim guide.  We begin at The Shepherd's Field.  A simple location for us to look out over the area to consider what the shepherds had to work with 2000 years ago and the caves they used to shelter their flocks.  Lots of dry land and no water.  Tough being a shepherd and a sheep back then, as it is now.

Two things to notice.  First, the poor shepherds and their flock in the middle and, we were told,
their failed attempt at farming in this area.  Secondly, the road at the top of the picture is
the separation of State of Israel and the West Bank, what you don't see is the
electrified barbed wire fence along the road.

We then move on to The Church of the Nativity and Manger Square.  The church was completed in 339AD, destroyed by fires during the Samaritan revolts in the 6th century, but rebuilt in 565AD by Byzantine Emperor Justinian.  And, here it stands today.  Due to its age and use, it is in constant need of repair and remodeling, and they were at it today.  But, in spite of the wear and tear, it is very impressive.

Since we were 'guided' we got to head to the front of the line to take the stairs down to the 'actual birthplace of Jesus'. Quotes for two reasons, 1) stairs.....the 60 foot rule, 2) not sure if this was the actual rock Baby Jesus was born on, or not, (neither is anyone else).  Someone made a decision 1700 years ago and built this orthodox synagogue over it.

Interesting, while we were looking at the spot, (not venerating, as many do), a rather charismatic gal threw her arms up in joy/exuberance and hit an oil lamp hanging from the ceiling.  A bit of panic with oil and flames all around us.  But, someone got a napkin, cleaned it up as she shuffled away. 

This is it, where Baby Jesus was born.  Lots of bowing and kissing from the
devout.  I got this picture between venerators.

Also, behind us is a small 6 by 6 foot pit with the/a manger in it.  I had to get a picture of that too.  We waited for a workman to tidy it up a bit before Gloria and I could drop two steps in to take our picture.  While we waited I tried to get a few pictures of the manger, not sure if a crowd would beat us into the little pit.   After I got several good shots, he finished his work, grabbed the 'manger' and left.  What!  Then, I realized I was getting perfect pictures of his toolbox, the manger was on the right.  It was bigger than I expected.

This is where they keep the manger.  Not behind the pole in the middle,
(that is the toolbox), rather the item on the right.

Now, Manger Square.  Briefly this square is very popular on Christmas Eve, duh!  What is interesting is Catholics celebrate a midnight Christmas Mass on December 25 and Orthodox celebrate on January 7!

Finally, a little levity to finish this blog.  We hit the Holocaust Museum tomorrow.

Only on the West Bank\

Day 2--The "sixty-foot rule"

First, what is the 'sixty-foot rule'?  This is a home-made, somewhat inaccurate rule of mine.  But, I keep hearing from Jonathan, our guide, that the history he is describing typically took place 60 feet below where we were standing!

An example: the Via Dolorosa. (The Way of Sorrow). This is the traditional route that Christ traveled, carrying the cross, from his conviction in Herod's temple to where he was crucified on Golgotha.  This route was inaugurated in the 18th century and embraced by the Catholic church.  14 stations have been identified and blessed; it is a pilgrimage route for many.  Devote followers go early in the morning and reflect at each station, when the cruise ships bring their people in the middle of the day, it is much less sacred.   But again, we are 60 feet above where Christ actually suffered on the way to his death.

Now, back to today.  We took a taxi through the Kidron Valley and by the Silwan Necropolis to the Mount of Olives.  Two quick notes: some Christians read the Bible such that Armageddon will take place in the Kidron Valley.  Armageddon being the final war, to end all wars and the end of the world!  IF that is the case, it's not going to be a big war, this is a small valley.

Silwan Necropolis is where people have been buried for over 3000 years!  It is estimated that over one million people have been buried here, again, not a lot of territory.  (over the centuries, layer after layer after layer of tombs).

An endless number of crypts.

Some of the innumerable crypts in the Silwan Necropolis.  Note the rocks on top. 
Two reasons for rocks, no flowers around this part of the world, and, rocks are
'permanent', unlike flowers.

The Mount of Olives.  Famous and historic.  First, and ironically, the majority of the area's inhabitants are Muslim.  On to why it is famous:  This is where Jesus spent much of his time during his ministry.  Numerous references in the New Testament.  Indeed, the Garden of Gethsemane is at its base, where he was betrayed and taken back to the city for trial, conviction and crucifixion.  And it was at the summit of the Mount where Christians believe after he was resurrected, he left earth and returned to heaven.

And the historic:  The Jewish Bible, (the Christian Old Testament) speaks of The Mount of Olives in relation to Kings David, Solomon and Josiah.  Lots of good and bad things happened here.  Some, also, interpret the Old Testament to say that ultimately YHWH (God) will eventually descend to earth here and crack the Mount open like an egg!

Hard to imagine all the above as we took pictures of the Old City and listened to cars and buses pass behind us!

View of the Temple Mount from the Mt. of Olives.  Note the gold dome.  First, the Temple Mount is Muslim territory.  Jews and Christians memorialize it as where Abraham ended up NOT sacrificing Isaac, but the Muslims consider this the center of  the world and the 3rd more sacred place on earth.  The Muslims won.  What Jesus saw in his day was not this gold dome, of course, but the immense Jewish Temple, much larger and much more gold.

The afternoon was spent in the City of David.  For some reason, all of us missed this in Bible classes as we grew up.  Prior to and below Jerusalem was the City of David. Largely undiscovered until the 19th century, there has been more excavations here then another other archeological site in Isreal.   Now the history.  Although inhabited since 4500 BC.  "Great" things started to happen around 1000 BC when King David wiped out the Jebusites living there. 

Fast-forward to 700 BC when an AMAZING tunnel was constructed from a spring in the valley below through solid limestone to inside the southern wall of Jerusalem to the Pool of Siloam. (More on the Pool of Siloam later).  The Assyrians were expected to attack Jerusalem, expecting a long siege, a water source was needed to survive. 

Over an unknown period of time, (months, not years) two teams of excavators carved a 533-meter tunnel, meeting in the middle!  Plus it had a gentle flow of only 30cm altitude difference! (0.06%)  We walked the entire length, in about 6 inches of water, an amazing experience.

The end of the tunnel, beyond this gate, the pool of Siloam.

And, as predicted we ended up in Jerusalem at the Pool of Siloam.  For you Bibliophiles, this is where Jesus sent the blind beggar to rinse after he had a dirt/spittle poltice for his face to restore his sight.

Finally, to finish our subterranean day, we walk an underground 6 foot sewer 'pipe' to get even further under and into the city of Jerusalem.

They are currently excavating.  These buckets are filled then
sent along a rail to be emptied above.

                                 

Day 1b--Highlights of the Jewish Temple Mount

First, The Church of the Holy Sepulchre.  4th-century tradition claims that at this location Christ both was crucified and resurrected.  It is really a complex, more than a shrine with three buildings and many, many people.  If the location of Golgotha and Joseph of Arimathea's tomb, where Christ was buried and resurrected are accurate, one is surprised how close together they are. 

The other eye-catcher was the number of faiths that lay claim to the real estate in the church proper.  These include the Greek Orthodox, Armenian Apostolic and Roman Catholic and to a lesser degree the Coptic Orthodox, Syriac Orthodox and Ethiopian Orthodox.   

People kneeling down and kissing the rock where the cross is believed to have been located.

You ask: where are the Protestants??   Good question.  They got aced out.  Or, actually weren't invited.  All the choice real estate in the Church was claimed long before Luther and Protestantism came on the scene, so for their pilgrims to have a destination, they 'created' the Garden Tomb, elsewhere in Jerusalem in the late 19th-century.  Indeed, this is a modest pilgrimage site for Protestants, (although, not mentioned by our guide), and it has been embraced and 'certified' as the tomb of Jesus by the Mormon Church.  Scholars have rejected it.

People cued up to kiss the alleged tomb of Christ.

Actual crypts close to the one above.  Typically, after death,  a family member would lie here
for 12 months, then the bones would be moved to a 'bone box'.  This went on for generations
in the family tomb. 

Orthodox Jews reading and swaying while immersed in the Torah.

Hey, we stumbled on a Bar Mitzvah.  A coming of age ceremony for a 12-year-old Jewish boy.   We were told these are only on Monday and Thursdays.  All were having a great time!

The other highlight of the day was to visit the Western or Wailing Wall.    Built by King Herod in 19BC, it and the other three walls are basically retaining walls for the Temple Mount, where the '2nd Jewish Temple' stood until its destruction, by the Romans in 70AD.  This is the holiest site in Judaism and very busy.  Really, quite an experience.

Notice the Kippah on my head.  All men are required to wear a Kippah.  Also, notice the 'white' in the seams of the huge stone building blocks. There are small papers for prayers.   The women have their own section of the Western Wall.  Very quiet and prayerful on our side, the ladies said it was packed and noisy in their area.  Go figure.

Day 1a--Jerusalem,--Prince William last week, us this week!

Looks like someone has a side-gig

A routine flight from the US.  A quick stopover in Istanbul, Turkey.  Then a two-hour flight to Tel Aviv and a 40-minute bus ride to Jerusalem.  Finally in the hotel around midnight.

A few intro facts.  First, we didn't know that 18% of Israelis are Muslim!   2% are Christian and 80% Jewish.  Further, the majority of Israeli Jews are secular or 'modern' Jews with the highest percentage of 'religious' Jews in Jerusalem, around 50%.  As time allows, I will discuss the difference between Jews.  And, a new term, "Jew-Bu"  THAT, we'll save for later.

Jonathan, our guide

Now, on to our first day in Israel.  An amazing, exhausting day.  10 hours of walking and information.  Jonathan, our guide, is, apparently, a five-star guide.  Reason?  Two weeks ago, he was Prince William's personal guide!!  If you look at this article, the last photo of the Prince in the Church of the Holy Sepulcher shows the head of a tall bald guy.  I think that is Jonathan's head!  We haven't asked to see a selfie yet......

Life is the same all over the world, fresh bread is delivered in the morning
and innumerable shops to buy innumerable things.

Now, Jerusalem, briefly it is divided into four quarters.   The Armenian Quarter, The Jewish Quarter, The Muslim Quarter and the Christian Quarter.  We walked through them all today.  All of these sections have been dictated by time, invasions and faith going back, literally, thousands of years.  In the next post we'll hit the high spots.

Our travel team, Kathy, Tom, Nick, Deb, Greg, Lacey, Gloria and Charlie

Countdown to Israel

This trip will be a bit different.  Gloria located an Israeli tour guide and put together a private tour for eight of us.  Gloria and me, Kathy, Gloria's sister and her husband Tom, Greg, our youngest and his wife Lacey, and her parents, Deb and Nick.

A nice tour of the hotspots of Israel, plus a couple of days in Jordan to see the world-famous Petra.  We fly through Istanbul, Turkey then off to Tel Aviv.  We'll pick it up again on Saturday/Sunday.